Call it the Model Market effect: a fine-sounding restaurant, Sparrow, is now opening near Lewisham station. It’s run by Terry Blake and Yohini Nandakumar, a couple who met when they both worked at St John’s in Smithfields.
Unsurprisingly the focus will be on British meat and vegetables, with flavours magpied a bit from around the world, reflecting previous stints between the pair at Bao, Merchant’s Tavern, Pollen Street Social and The Square.
“We chose the name because it reflects the kind of food that we make,” says Yohini, who was born in Sri Lanka. “Like a sparrow we aren’t specific to a place or country. One week we might put a classic Italian dish on the menu and other times we’ll make a crunchy Malay-style salad with whatever is in season.”
What else can we expect? Sharing plates (obvs) as diverse as courgette trifolati and roasted spring onion bruschetta; glazed ham slices, served with home-baked sourdough and rhubarb relish (yum); and roast pork belly, spiked with harissa.
An open kitchen will take centre stage, with antique tables and chairs dotted about. There’ll be brunch at the weekends too, with Ozone beans and a menu of eggs benedict, coconut pancakes and appam, a Sri-Lankan pancake.
Overall, then, one to flock to – whatever your postcode.
