Review: Union Street Cafe, Southwark

Sure, it's a Gordon Ramsay restaurant. But this hip warehouse conversion more than stands on its own merits

Union Street Cafe:
Union Street Cafe: feels like a good find. Photo: PR

A former supermarket goods store, this most industrial of Gordon Ramsay outposts is a surprise in a good way. You may remember it had its moment in the tabloids just before opening, when it was not only revealed that David Beckham was an investor (he subsequently pulled out) but that it had a rumoured 10,000 bookings before it had even launched.

All that’s ancient history now – in fact it was quietish on our invited midweek, early-evening visit – but at least that allows a nonjudgmental appreciation of the warehouse-style interior, which feels a bit NYC, a bit East End. A quick look at the handwritten menu reassures diners, however, that the food is uncompromisingly Italian.

Northern Italy, to be precise, with born-and-bred head chef Davide Degiovanni influenced by his family recipes – and, of course, the slew of Michelin-starred restaurants he’s previously worked for.

As menu descriptions are elegantly terse – with just a handful of options for each course – some may need to resort to a light google to gain a full understanding. Or, preferably, an in-depth chat with the waiter about some of the ingredients. Which is presumably what’s intended.

An artfully distressed ‘secret’ bar downstairs buzzes too, bedecked with the work of local artists, the urban living room vibe complemented by low light and comfortable, sink-into sofas. But it was a school night; and we chose to focus on eating rather than drinking.

Pork fillets: possibly the best dish we ate. Photo: SE
Pork fillets: possibly the best dish we ate. Photo: SE

Not, of course, that abstinence was the order of the day. If you engage the sommelier, he’ll recommend wines to match each course – so over the course of the meal we guzzled several including a perky Albariño, a light Venetian rosso, creamy Tuscan Chardonnay, and fruity Crozes Hermitage.

It’s worth splashing out on antipasti, primi and secondi if you’re here on a special occasion: portion sizes are relative and it makes for a leisurely experience. Clean, earthy tastes abound: chopped beef with seasonal Jerusalem artichokes, parmesan and truffle was essentially steak tartare, but far more interesting, the red meat jostling with creamy, salty, seasonal flavours, all perfectly room temperature.

Contrasting this in texture and tangy-ness was a pretty plate of raw sea bream with clementine, its translucently light flesh made citrussy, with just a touch of salt from dried capers, and the crunch of pistachio.

Then, without delay, it was onto the primi: smooth rigatoni with squid in black ink, sprouting broccoli and nduja (the spreadable innard-based pork sausage) balanced earth, land and sea in harmony, the silken pasta holding the delicate plate together.

Budino.
Budino: a Piedmontese classic

A must-try, however? The puddle of deep mauve risotto with bitter radicchio, speck and melted smoked scamorza (a little like mozzarella), wine bleeding out a little decadently. And it was perfect with the Venetian Gran Passione rosso.

Secondi were arguably better still: tender grilled octopus, which carved like butter, was perched on mousse-like polenta and scattered with chanterelles. We disagreed over whether it was better, however, than the two halves of pork fillet, rosy as the finest Châteaubriand, on barley, ricotta and black truffle. Readers will know how much we love pork – and this came pretty close to one of our favourites, the Iberican presa at nearish Lobos.

Oh, and the almost entirely Italian staff were pretty good, too. The charming “this-is-my-favourite-dish-in-my-hometown” spiel surfaced on a couple of occasions – such as when we contemplated a texture-rich Piedmontese bunet for dessert. But it was a good recommendation, proving light let deeply chocolatey, and with a sweet aged Sicilian Marsala.

So really, is this the Gordon Ramsay restaurant it’s OK to rave about? I would say yes. And it certainly makes a memorable double act with the nearby theatre, currently showing the exuberant Pet Shop Boys musical Closer To Heaven (which we reviewed here).

Union Street Café, 47-51 Great Suffolk Street, London, SE1 0BS

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